Backpacking on the 4 day Cordillera Huayhuash hike is like no other backpacking trail I’ve ever hiked before. Walking along the lush green meadows amongst steep, towering mountains makes it easy to see why some rate the Huayuash as one of the top 10 hikes in the world.
Located in the rugged Andes Mountains in Central Peru, the Cordillera Huayhuash is a trekking route that borders Ancash, Lima, and Huanuco within the Cordillera Huayhuash Reserved Zone.
This guide covers my experience along the 4 day Cordillera Huayhuash trek from Llamac to Viconga, and includes epic sights such as the Viconga hot springs. It is written for those wanting to experience one of the best hikes in existence, whether guided or independent, and those looking to learn more and prepare for hiking the Cordillera Huayhuash Trek.
Jump To
Why Backpack the 4 day Cordillera Huayhuash Trek?
The Cordillera Huayhuash trek is not your average hike. Situated anywhere from 12,000 to 18,00 feet elevation, it features immensely unique scenery and unmatched solitude.
Backpacking the 4 day Cordillera Huayhuash trek takes you through a mixture of weather – sun, rain, snow, and thunder – while battling the harsh elevation. Although challenging, the world-class scenery is what can give you the extra boost to finish this hike.
Navigating The 4 Day Cordillera Huayhuash Backpacking Trail
The hiking trail along the Huayhuash route is fairly well-marked. That being said, our Garmin Watch proved to be our best tool to keep us on track.
Having GPS navigation is essential on this hike as there is little-to-no service throughout the entire route.
Pro Tip: Use my Garmin route to plan your exact route for the 4 Day Cordillera Huayhuash trek. Use my template and feel free to add any additional waypoints to customize your hike!
Trail conditions of the Cordillera Huayhuash vary greatly because of the high amount of rainfall in the area. Most of the trail is muddy, so be prepare to have wet shoes for most of the hike. The trail is also walked by pack donkeys carrying gear, creating very mushy areas.
There are also sections of the trail with dry, dusty rock. These areas can also become slippery with loose rock under your feet.
Knowing this, it is essential to have a great pair of fast-drying hiking boots to complete this hike, along with multiple pairs of tough hiking socks that prevent blisters.
1. Arriving to Cartelwain
Most people will start the Huayhuash trek by arriving in Huaraz. This city serves as a main hub for many of the adventures around the Andes mountain’s region.
After arriving in Huaraz, the best way to get to the Huayhuash trail is to find a “colectivo”, or a collective bus and travel with a group. Grab the bus from Huaraz to Llamac from Turismo Nazario. This bus leaves at 5am and arrives in Llamac around 10:30am.
After arriving in Llamac, there will be other taxis and other busees ready to take you to Cuartelwain. If you choose not to travel to Cuartelwain via car, you can hike an extra 10 miles, but I definitely recommend taking the car!
Once you arrive at the Cuartelwain campsite, you have the option of either spending the first night at the site, or hiking to the next campground, Carhuacocha, which is what we did. However, if you need more time to acclimate, spend the first day at Cuartelwain.
2. Cuartelwain to Carhuacocha
The Cuartelwain to Carhuacocha section of the Cordillera Huayhuash encompasses around 13.5 miles and starts at 13,500 feet and reaches 15,000 feet at the top of the pass.
Although the elevation gain of this day isn’t too strenuous, the actual milage is moderately high.
This section of the hike should serve as a great warm-up for more challenging sections of the trek.
In terms of weather, most days along the Huayhuash trek start out dry and sunny with rain pushing in toward the afternoon. For this reason , I recommend starting the hike very early, around 6 or 7:00 am in order to make it to the next campsite before getting wet.
Once you arrive at the Carhuacocha campsite, make sure to take in the views of Jirishanca and the surrounding peaks!
3. Carhuacocha to Huayhuash
- Remote experience, rudimentary camping notes.
The Carhuacocha to Huayhuash section of the trek contains a distance of around 8 miles with elevation from 13,600 feet to 15,600 and is extremely steep. For this section of the trail, be sure to take it slow.
This section of the trail also contains the “Tres Laguna”, or the famous three lakes viewpoint, which is definitely worth stooping for!
4. Huayhuash to Viconga
The Huayhuash to Viconga campsite section of the Cordillera Huayhuash is my favorite section of the trek becuase of the hot springs! These hot tubs definitely feel 100x better than anything else after such a long day of hiking!
This section of the trail encompasses 7 miles of distance with 1,000 feet of elevation gain.
After arriving at Viconga, you’ll be asked to pay a camp fee of around 30 soles per person. There is a small shop, right next to the hot springs, that sells all types of drinks like soda, beer, and water.
There is even a restaurant that serves fresh fried fish with tea in the evenings for 20 soles. We definitely took advantage of this and the food was delicious.
To leave Viconga, you can ask the shop owner to take a bus out from the campground from around 500 soles, or ask to leave with another tour guide for around 150 soles.
If you decide to continue the trek, you can either hike to Huayallapa or further to Popca to finish the full trek.
When to Go: Best Seasons for Backpacking the Cordillera Huayhuash
The weather in the Andes can be a bit confusing to understand, but I’ll try to break down the best time to visit the Cordillera Huayhuash to make the most of your experience!
Compared to seasons in North America, the seasons within the Andes Mountains are reversed. During summer in North America, Peru has its “Andean Summer”. However, this is actually the winter season in the Andes with regards to temperatures. The “summer” phrase refers to the precipitation.
The months of May through September are the driest months to complete the Cordillera Huayhuash, which is when I recommend going. The hike can still be done during the rest of the year, but landslides and heavy rain might get in the way!
There are little to no bugs along the trail, so there is no concern to bring bug nets or any bug spray. Although, if you are very sensitive to bug bites, you may want to bring spray just in case.
What to Pack for 4 Day Cordillera Huayhuash Trek
For a 4-day Cordillera Huayhuash trek, you’ll need to be prepared for high altitude, cold nights, and unpredictable weather. Here’s a complete packing list:
Camping Gear (if trekking independently):
- Lightweight tent (4-season if possible)
- Sleeping bag (rated at least -10°C / 14°F)
- Sleeping pad (insulated)
- Cooking stove + fuel
- Lightweight cooking pot + utensils
- Lighter + waterproof matches
- Water filter or purification tablets
- Headlamp with extra batteries
Clothing (Layering is key):
- Base layers (thermal top and bottom)
- Insulating mid-layer (fleece or down jacket)
- Waterproof and windproof outer layer (jacket and pants)
- 2 Hiking pants (convertible if possible)
- 2-4 T-shirts or moisture-wicking shirts
- Warm hat and sun hat
- Gloves (warm + lightweight liner gloves)
- Buff or neck gaiter
- Extra underwear and hiking socks (4 pairs)
Footwear:
- Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots (broken in)
- Camp shoes or sandals
- Gaiters (optional but helpful for mud or snow)
Essentials:
- Backpack (50–65L)
- Daypack (for short hikes from camp)
- Trekking poles
- Sunglasses (UV protection)
- Sunscreen (high SPF) and lip balm with SPF
- First aid kit (include altitude sickness meds, blister care)
- Personal toiletries (quick-dry towel, biodegradable soap, toothbrush, etc.)
- Toilet paper and waste bag (or trowel)
- Snacks and high-calorie food
- Reusable water bottles or hydration bladder (2–3L capacity)
Extras:
- Map or GPS (or downloaded offline trail maps)
- Portable charger or solar panel
- Camera or phone for photos
- Lightweight book or journal
- ID/passport copy and some cash
Permits, Safety, and Leave No Trace Tips
- Camping regulations and fire rules.
- Wildlife awareness (bears, snakes).
- Navigation tips: offline maps, signage quality.
- Keywords: Allegheny National Forest permits, safety tips for backpacking
Permits
While there’s no centralized government permit required for the Cordillera Huayhuash trek, most communities along the trail charge access fees.
Over the course of a 4-day trek, expect to pay between 150–250 soles total. These fees are collected by locals at designated checkpoints, and each village manages its own segment of the trail.
Be sure to carry enough cash in small denominations and keep all receipts as proof of payment.
Safety on the 4 Day Cordillera Huayhuash Trek
Trekking in the Huayhuash requires preparation, especially due to the high altitude. It’s strongly recommended to acclimatize in Huaraz for at least 2–3 days before starting your hike.
Bring altitude medication like Diamox, stay well hydrated, and monitor for signs of altitude sickness. It is important to know that most medication, including Diamox and motion sickness pills, can be bought at the pharmacy on the streets in Huaraz.
The weather can change rapidly, ranging from strong sun to freezing rain or snow within a few hours. Pack accordingly, avoid hiking after dark, and if trekking independently, carry a GPS device or satellite communicator. Always share your route and expected return date with someone you trust.
Leave No Trace Tips
Preserving the pristine beauty of the Huayhuash range is essential. Pack out all trash, including toilet paper, food scraps, and packaging.
Use a trowel to bury human waste at least 6–8 inches deep and 200 feet from water sources—or better yet, carry it out in waste bags.
Stick to established trails to avoid damaging sensitive alpine ecosystems.
Respect wildlife by observing from a distance and never feeding animals. When passing through villages, be courteous, ask before taking photos, and minimize noise to honor the local way of life.
Local Tips & Nearby Towns Along the 4 Day Cordillera Huayhuash Trek
Local Tips for the 4 Day Cordillera Huayhuash Trek
Starting your hikes early each day is key—mornings in the Cordillera Huayhuash are typically clearer and calmer, while afternoon storms can roll in quickly.
Always carry small amounts of Peruvian soles, as you’ll need cash for community checkpoints and local snacks, and change is often hard to come by.
If you’re not trekking with a tour, consider hiring a local guide or muleteer. Not only will this lighten your load, but it also supports the local economy and ensures better navigation through the region’s less-marked trails.
Learning some basic Spanish can make a big difference in connecting with the locals, many of whom speak Quechua, similar to Spanish, as their primary language.
Keep in mind that cell service is extremely limited, so be sure to download offline maps before your trek. Weather can change rapidly, so keep rain gear and warm layers accessible at all times.
Nearby Towns on the 4 Day Cordillera Huayhuash Trek
Huaraz is the main base for most trekkers in the region. It offers everything you’ll need to prepare: gear rentals, pharmacies, mountain guides, hostels, and plenty of restaurants. It’s also the best place to spend a few days acclimatizing before heading into the mountains.
If staying in Huaraz, make sure to book Aldo’s Hostel. The owner, Aldo, is a super helpful (he speaks English as well) and will make sure you have everything you need before you start your trek. They even have accommodations like laundry, shared kitchen, and private rooms for extra comfort!
From there, many travelers continue to Chiquián, a quiet and scenic town that serves as a gateway to the Huayhuash. While smaller and more laid-back than Huaraz, it still has basic accommodations and meal options.
Llamac is a common starting or finishing point for Huayhuash treks. It’s a tiny Andean village with limited facilities, but it provides an authentic cultural experience and a warm welcome.
Another village occasionally used along shorter or custom routes is Pacllón, which offers basic supplies and may provide transportation options back to Chiquián or Huaraz.
Final Thoughts
Hiking the Cordillera Huayhuash has proved to be challenging, but one of the most beautiful hikes I have ever been on. I could immediately see why this trail is ranked one of the best in the world as soon as I stepped foot on the trail.
The Cordillera Huayhuash is located in a Reserved Zone, and is a hike that should be cherished and protected for years to come for everyone to enjoy. I hope that this guide provided help for planning your 4 day Cordillera Huayhuash journey.
If you are looking to complete the full Huayuash trek, you can use this guide to help plan the beginning stages of your journey.
Please leave a comment for any questions that you might have for this trek and Il” be happy to answer them. Good luck and enjoy the beauty of the Andes Mountains!
